Science

Which of the following is true of swell?
found in the area of the wind that generated it found far away from wind that generated it caused by wind
caused by earthquakes presents as multiple wave trains
single wave train
Which of these are restoring forces.
gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
Earth’s gravity earthquakes
landslides
surface tension
wind
Which of the following are possible generating force(s) for waves.
gravitational forces between Earth and Moon |
Earth’s gravity
earthquakes
landslides
surface tension
wind
Which of these forces restores a capillary wave.
gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
Earth’s gravity earthquakes
landslides
surface tension
wind
Which of these forces generates a capillary wave.
gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
Earth’s gravity earthquakes
landslides
surface tension
wind
Which of the following is true of an internal wave?
Found at surface
Found along pycnoclines
Found along seafloor
Using Figure 1, label crest, trough, equilibrium surface, height, and wavelength.

wave diagram
Figure 1. Parts of a wave.
What are the number of wavelengths shown in the image above?
Which of the following would be considered a standing wave?
Tsunami
Swell
Chop
Seiche
Tides
Which of the following would be considered a progressive wave?
Tsunami
Swell
Chop
Seiche
Tides
Give equation for wave base and describe how it is measured.
If a wave has a wave length of 30 m, what is the wave base depth?
If 4 wave lengths pass a point in 2 minutes, what is the wave period?
How fast do tsunami travel?
What’s the average period of a tsunami?
What’s the average wavelength of a tsunami?
With a period of 10 seconds and a wavelength of 50 m, what is the wave speed?
What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
What happens to wave height after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
What happens to wave length after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
What happens to wave period after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered a deep water wave?
At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered NOT a deep water wave?
Which types of waves have the potential to have the largest height?
Which of the following would be considered a deep-water wave in the open ocean?
Tsunami
Swell
Chop
Seiche in Pool/Lagoon/Bay
Which of the following will increase wind wave height in the open ocean?
Strong winds
Moderate winds
Weak winds
As a result, where in the world’s oceans do we get the largest open ocean wind waves? Why?
What type of interference causes rogue waves?
constructive
destructive
Which direction does a rip current move? (Hint: time to do some outside research):
along the shore
towards the shore
away from the shore
What causes rip currents?
jetty
headland
two longshore currents colliding
wave direction
Can they be predicted? Explain.
Which direction does a longshorecurrentmove?
along the shore
towards the shore
away from the shore
What cause(s) longshore currents?
jetty
headland
two longshore currents colliding
wave direction
Which of the following is true for tsunami (pick all that apply):
deep-water wave
shallow-water wave
produced by earthquakes
produced by landslides
produced by strong winds
considered a rogue (episodic) wave
considered a standing wave
considered a progressive wave
What’s the average height of a tsunami in the open ocean?
Are tsunami dangerous in the open sea? What happens when they reach shore?
Which types of waves have the smallest wavelength, height, and period? (Check the Log Book)
Which types of waves have the largest wavelength? (Check the Log Book)
Which types of waves have the longest period? (Check the Log Book)
Where is your Pirate Ship headed? (Check the Chapter 2 introduction). What are the coordinates of the

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